THE journey from Indonesia to Russia via China and Mongolia, yes, hello, I’m Adit, 25 years old, solo traveler from Indonesia. My current position, on Irkutsk, Russia. I’m a backpacker which is I’m traveling with tight budget and always survive with free accommodation, free food, and sometimes free transportation such as hitchhike.
So far I already traveled for 9 countries since August 2017 until now, and mostly I did it by overland. I start my trip from South to the North, here’s my route and my transportation :
- Indonesia to Singapore by plane
- Singapore to Malaysia by bus
- Malaysia to Ho Chi Minh by plane
- Ho Chi Minh to Cambodia by bus
- Cambodia to Thailand by bus
- Thailand to Laos by bus
- Laos to Hanoi by bus
- Hanoi to China by bus and train
- China to Mongolia by bus and train
- Mongolia to Russia by bus
I just want to share some stories about my journey from China to Mongolia, here’s some topic that I will share :
I. Processing Russian Visa in Beijing
II. Processing Mongolian Visa in Beijing
III. Overland from China to Mongolia via Zamyn-Üüd Border
IV. Processing Russian Visa in Ulaanbaatar
V. The Northern Part of Mongolia
VI. Surprised at the end of my journey in Mongolia
I hope it will be useful.
Here’s my story.
The Journey from Indonesia to Russia via China and Mongolia
Part I: Processing Russian Visa in Beijing
I almost gave up when I’m in China, there were only 2 options between, I got a job, working for 2 years, saving more money, buying the winter stuff and continue my journey to Russia or If I didn’t get a job, I’ll get back to my country.
Why I need to get a job in China, and why I should work at least 2 years in China? I did some research before on the internet, about how to get Russian Visa in China, most of them said, It’s hard to get Russian Visa in China, another said, at least you should working for 2 years to get residence permit then you can be easily to get Russian Visa.
That’s my first reason why almost give up. Another reason is the weather, during the winter Russia has extreme cold weather around -40°C until -70°C, I don’t have any good winter stuff. I’ve been searched before about the price for winter stuff, and it’s pretty expensive for me.
There were 2 coincidences that happened to me while I’m in China. At the time I just want to try to take some money on ICBC ATM, I just want to check “How much fee that I should pay If I did withdrawal on that ATM, then I clicked it, suddenly I got the money without notification.
I was thinking, what? There’s no fee to take the money on this ATM? and the money that I took before it’s too much for me, I don’t know what I am going to do with that money. I was thinking maybe that coincidence was a sign for me to buy the flight ticket to Indonesia.
On weekend, I visited Tianjin eye, I saw there were some souvenir shops, and It’s pretty unique for me. I bought 4 mini characters when I’m in Tianjin, 1 “squash” that’s one of Plant vs Zombie Character, 1 “Chopper” that’s One Piece character, 1 Totoro, and 1 “Eeyore” that’s one of Winnie The Pooh Character.
Yup, those things convinced me that I thought I will go back to Indonesia. But, it’s totally not. Those coincidences took me to another way, not going back to Indonesia but to Mongolia and Russia.
Here’s where the stories began, one day I did some conversation with one of my friend from Russia, we never meet before, I just know about her when both of us taught English in Hai Phong, Northern Vietnam, but we were in the different English course. I knew her from one of my friend in my English course, they introduce her on Facebook Messenger. We talked about my Russian Visa.
At the time I almost gave up, but she convinced me by helping me, how to get Russian Visa. She’s very kind and helpful. She also gave me her address in Russia, just in case I need it. I also tried to read and find some more information about processing Russian Visa, then I just decided “Okay, I’ll try to process my visa to Beijing which is 110km from Tianjin”.
Regarding the cost, distance and time, I need to make a preliminary plan and deduce with every single step that I take. First, I asked to Russian Embassy in Beijing by email, I sent it on 26 December 2017
Dear Mr/Mrs
I’m Achdiyatma Sudiro, solo traveler from Indonesia. I have been traveling for 7 countries since August 2017. I start my trip from Indonesia-Singapore-Malaysia-Vietnam- Cambodia-Thailand-Laos-China. My next destination is Russia.
While I’m traveling I make personal travel stories and short movie about every country that I visit and share it to the public.
My current position in Tianjin, China. I have a plan to travel around Russia after China, is it possible for Indonesian to process the Russian visa in Beijing?
I’m looking forward for your reply. Thank you for your consideration.
Sincerely,
Achdiyatma Sudiro
Then I got good respond on the same day, 7 hours after I sent my email.
Good day,
It is possible for Indonesian citizen to apply for the Russian visa in Beijing. Required documents and other important information you can find at the website of Russian Embassy in China: http://www.russia.org.cn/en/consular_issues/russian-visa-2/
Best Regards,
Russian Embassy in China.
The Journey from Indonesia to Russia via China and Mongolia
After I got the good respond, then I’m looking some information, how to get my Tourist Invitation Voucher, because that’s the foremost document that Russian Embassy will be asked to me.
Actually there were a lot of options which travel agencies that you can take, start from the cheapest one, the quickest one, and anything. At the first, it’s hard for me to find the travel agencies that provide Tourist Invitation Voucher for Indonesian citizens.
It’s hard because there’s announcement from Russian Embassy that Indonesia is the one of the high risk country to enter Russia. It also hard to decide which one that has good reputation, because to get 1 Tourist Invitation Voucher it’s unaffordable price for me and I am also working against the clock, I only have 2 weeks left before my visa’s expired.
Not only that things, I had limited scoop to process my Russian Visa on 29 December 2017, which is the last working days of Russian Embassy and the bad thing is, I found there’s 1 announcement from their website, they will open again on 9 January.
It’s totally high risk for me to keep processing my Russian visa, because If I got an approvement on 29 December, I had 3 days for them to process it, it’s more expensive because I will do with express visa.
If I got it, I will get it on the last day before my visa expired on 12 January. So I need to deduce which one is trustworthy travel agency. I found Russian National Group, I choose that one, because when I visit Russian Embassy website, they suggest the reader to use that one.
Yup, it’s expensive than another agency, $50 for 1 Tourist Invitation Voucher, and you can get on the same day. It took 30 minutes for them to process it. Please remember, that this travel agency based on New York which is has different time.
The difference time between China and New York around 13 hours. So I got my Tourist Invitation Voucher on the next day. I prepared all of my documents until 04.00 am in the morning, not only that. I also need to prepare my materials for my students in Tianjin, China and told to my host that I couldn’t attend to the class on that day.
Btw, she asked me to Introduce my country, so I drew Indonesian map on white board, and wrote about it with elaborate explanations, then I only slept 1 hour before I go to Beijing. I also did a lot of screen captures about the map or information how to go to Russian Embassy in Beijing, because since I’m in arrived in China, my I phone 5 didn’t support for China Mobile.
Actually there’s one sim card that still support for 3G users, it’s China Unicom, but I knew it on the last day I’m in China. I’ll continue the previous topic. So, I went to Russian Embassy, but they want me to print the online form from their website. At the time, I already filled the online form, but I made a mistake.
On the first page, you will be asked “ in which country you will apply this form?”, I choose Indonesia, as a result, on the last page I can’t print it because the address that I applied was Russian Embassy in Indonesia. Maybe, I already tired and I’m not focus when I filled the form.
So, they suggest me to go to their agency, not really far from Russian Embassy in Beijing. I forgot the name of that agency, but it’s located in the big mall. When I’m arrived on that agency, I made another mistake. I didn’t recognize that I put the departure date on 14 January. They reminded me, that my visa will be expired on 12 January.
They told to me, If you want to get the visa on 12 January, you need to change your data today, 15.00 pm. It’s impossible for me regarding I processed my Tourist Invitation Voucher on New York. As a result, that’s vain efforts for me. I was failed to get my Russian Visa.
Please always keep in mind about the 30 days and 31 days in every month. Previously I never care about it. It’s very important when you’re traveling. At the time I thought, I’m arrived in China on 14 December, so my visa will be expired on 14 January, but it’s totally wrong.
The Journey from Indonesia to Russia via China and Mongolia
Part II: Processing Mongolian Visa in Beijing
Finding the way how to get Russian Visa required perseverance. I looked to the map, which country that close to Russia, there’s 1 option that I can try. Yup that’s Mongolia, I choose it, because my direction is keep going to the north, and at the time there’s 1 coincidence that made me decided Mongolia as my next country.
I was disappointed, and tired with all of my situation, then I saw one account posted a picture on Instagram about Mongolian Tribe, Eagle Hunter. Wow it’s very interesting, and made me want to visit that country only to see the Eagle Hunter.
I tried to get the information how to get Mongolian Visa in Beijing, there’s one website “nomadasaurus” they told us, that it’s very easy to get Mongolian Visa in Beijing. I also checked, do I need apply a visa for that country, and numerous websites showed Indonesia as the one country that need a visa to enter Mongolia, then I prepared all of my documents.
But when I’m arrived, the results totally surprised me. The officer asked me twice, “is it official passport?” I said, yes, of course. Then he said, you don’t need any visa to enter Mongolia. I didn’t believe him directly, I told him, “based on my researched I need a visa to enter Mongolia” then he showed me the picture from embassy that Indonesia as visa-free country, and I have 30 days free entry. It’s very good news for me.
The Journey from Indonesia to Russia via China and Mongolia
Part III: Overland from China to Mongolia via Zamyn-Üüd Border
Yup, on 9 January I left China. 2 coincidences that happened to me actually have another meaning. The 4 characters that I bought, I gave it one, to my lovely student in Tianjin.
His name is Jackson. I met him on the class, at the time he’s lonely. No one with him, then I came to him, introduce my self and tried to talk with him. At the first, he’s not really care with me but I always sit beside him, and ask to play or talk with him. Step by step, he enjoyed with me.
I don’t know his parents divorced long time ago, he lives with his grandma. His mother alcoholic and didn’t care about him, his father the owner of 5 stars hotel in Tianjin which is Jackson is very rich kid, the impacts of being rich are, he didn’t respect to anyone, he didn’t care with his education, and he has bad attitude. No one teachers likes him. Many organization reject him as a student, everybody hates him. He’s lonely.
I knew everything about him on the last day I’m in China but the good thing is, his life changed when I came. That’s why we became a best friend, he said on the last day, he likes me, he asked me to put my name on his book, sign it for him, and put my phone number.
We became a best friend since I came on the first week. He always hug me from behind. He looks so sad, when he knew I’ll leave from China. He hold me tight, and said please don’t go, sit here (on the last day I met him). I asked him to write his name on my boots. I said, I want to keep it as memories. When you see some of my pictures were used brown shoes, that shoes were gift from his grandma when she know I’ll go to Mongolia.
That’s gift for me because I don’t have warm shoes. His grandma always say thank you to me when she picked up Jackson, because there’s someone care with him, and Jackson also likes me. If you see there’s a plant vs zombie character, that’s gift for him. He really likes zombie, I put my name on the bottom, to remind him about our memories. I just know that he likes zombie after I bought that mini character.
Btw, in Tianjin I worked as a volunteer, I taught about English and Art, but I combine those 2 materials into 1 pack. So the kids will be happy and more enthusiast. About the money that I took a lot on the ICBC bank, I spent it to buy winter stuff in Decathlon. That’s the affordable outdoor shop in China, and it also has good quality. They have good website with good specification products.
I did a lot of researched on their website, try to compare 1 stuff to another stuff, and listed it. When I’m arrived in Decathlon, I just show my listed, and their employess in Tianjin were very helpful. I’m totally satisfied. I’m not doing promotion, but it’s fact, it’s true stories that happened to me.
I need to buy the good one for my winter stuff due to the extreme cold in Mongolia, it’s around -28°C until -60°C. So far when I’m traveling Mongolia I always get the temperature between -28°C until -42°C. For Mongolian, it’s warm temperature, based on the information that I got from 1 family who lived in Tsagaannuur, they ever got the lowest temperature between -50°C until -60°C.
When everything’s done I went to Beijing on early morning, I took the bus from my place to Tianjin Railway station it cost ¥1, I waited from 05.15 am and I got 06.00 am. From the train station I took the express train from Tianjin to Beijing. It cost ¥54.50, with 110km distances it’s just take 30 minutes. From Beijing I went to Dahongmen St, line 10. I went to the exit C – South East and took 10 minutes by walking. From Dahongmen to Muxiyuan I paid ¥3.
When I’m arrived, I walked to Muxiyuan bus station in Beijing. It tooks around 20 – 30 minutes by walking. Actually there were 2 names Muxiyuan bus station, the old one and the new one. I choose the new one, but it was wrong. I didn’t find any official ticket bus to Mongolia.
I arrived around 01.00 pm, there were many people come to me to offer the ticket bus to Mongolia because at the time I’m the only one who used 2 big backpacks. They might be know that I’m looking for the bus to Mongolia. I asked them how much for the ticket, they said ¥ 220 which is lil bit expensive from the official ticket. I tried to bargain with ¥ 180, and we deal with ¥ 200 which is the same price for the official ticket.
Based on my researched the black market will sell the ticket around ¥ 250 to ¥ 260. I waited in the small cargo house until 18.00 pm, all of them mostly Mongolian. I can charge my devices inside, took a rest and boiled the water. I took the bus from Beijingl to Erlian. I arrived in Erlian around 07.00 am then I waited the bus from Erlian to Zamiin-Uud. The bus came around 09.00 am, it cost ¥ 40 and it takes 15 minutes until you arrived in the border.
Well, at the time I’m the only one foreigner in the border, all of them were Mongolian. As I told you before, it’s not the time for traveler visit Mongolia, because of the weather. In the border, China Immigration arrested me for 45 minutes until 1 hour, they asked me many questions.
I lost my bus, they left me because I spent a lot of time in the immigration. I already paid ¥40 for the bus, and they left me, my Mongolian friends that I met on the bus also left me. I don’t have any transportation or someone that could speak English. For all of you who want to cross from China to Mongolia, or from Hanoi to China you should be prepare to face many securities inspection. China, they pretty strict with the foreigner who passing by on their country.
Just said as confident as you can, don’t be fret. Especially for Indonesian, you will feel like an alien for them, I don’t know in the past, are there any Indonesian who already crossed the border from Hai Phong to China, and China to Mongolia by overland. As far as I know, I didn’t find any articles talking about it. That’s why China immigration suspicious with me.
I always spend around 45-60 minutes in the immigration, longer than the others but I never be afraid, just take it easy. At the time, I just relax, sat and opened my meal box, ate my palm dates, peanuts, and sweet potatoes in front of them. I don’t care what they’re thinking about me.
At the end, they allowed me to leave from China and went to Mongolia. They smile at me, and said I’m sorry and good luck for your trip. 2 soldiers guide me and gave me a way and took me to the car. I asked them, how much I should pay for the car. They said you don’t need to pay. It’s free.
Ah ya, I have a suggestion for you. When you stay for long duration in China, at least you can show and explain to the Immigration what did you do. At the time I spent a month in China, I already explain a lot of things but it’s not totally working. Luckily my host gave me the certificate, it contains the explanation what did I do for a month, where I stay, and bla bla bla. I just showed this certificate and done, they allow me to go.
This is where the bad stories began. I met some Mongolian, they couldn’t speak English. They just smile at me. When I’m arrived in Mongolian immigration, the same things happened again like when I’m in China Immigration. They looked on my passport for a long time, they couldn’t speak English. I just said to them I don’t need any visa to enter your country.
Suddenly this girl yelled to the others, Indonesiaaa Indonesiaaa… then all the securities looked at me, I thought they will arrest me, but suddenly they smile at me, and gave me a way. Just 5 minutes, they gave me stamp. When I’m finished from Mongolian Immigration, I waited another people who sat on the same car with me, but I didn’t find anyone. I tried to remember my car, then I found it but there’s no one there. I waited for a long time until the driver came.
Actually it’s not really far from the border to the train station, it’s around 10 minutes by car, but at the time I was thinking it will be far away. Suddenly he asked for money with his body language. I just pretending that I didn’t understand. I just said I want to go to the train station to Ulaanbataar.
He didn’t understand, and always ask about money. He stopped his car on the car park, I was thinking this is my train station, then directly I open the door but suddenly he arrested me, and call all Mongolian drivers who sat near the train station, he called his friend that could speak English.
I knew he asked for money, and I say to his friend, tell him ‘I don’t want to pay him. That soldiers told me I don’t need to pay anything. Why I should pay? Let me know, how much that he want? His friend said ¥100, I said to her, are you kidding me? It’s not far but I should pay ¥100?
I don’t want to pay, and I directly took all of my stuff and suddenly, another driver hold me pretty tight, they want fight with me, this fat driver said ‘I’m Mongolian with Angry face’ I said, I don’t care who you are, his bigger than me, he has a lot friends that can help him to fight, but I don’t care. I took my bags and pushed through all the drivers.
Then this driver gave his phone to me, his friend said to me, If you don’t pay he will take me back to the immigration or to the police. Then I said, ya.. take me back.. I don’t care. This driver suddenly pulled and threw my bag to the car, his drove like a chicken with the burn ass.
When he drove into somewhere, I directly marked the place that I thought the train station on my offline map. Just in case he dropped off me in the middle of nowhere and It was true, he did it. Hhh, I’m not as idiot as you think, I don’t care how far you took me in the middle of nowhere, I knew how to going back. He dropped off me in the middle of desert and snow, no one there. He stopped and said, go…
I just go without say anything and I didn’t close the door. The first impression about Mongolian drivers were inadequate. I walked, looked to the map and woow it’s very far from the train station. I need 1 h and 41 min until I’m arrived. I tried to looking around, then I made a short cut by my feeling. I didn’t follow the map.
I just used my instinct, I walked under the sun, in the middle of sand dunes and snow, when I through this way suddenly one by one the wild dog barked at me, I kept calm and passed them one by one. Until suddenly there’s one dog ran to me and want to bite my leg. I ran to the alley with heavy bag. He couldn’t find me, but he gave the signal to the others. so I should be deduced, which way that I should take when I saw the dogs.
I’m very tired and thirsty, when I took my bottle it was freezing. I’m hungry, then I took my apple and my bread, but it’s freezing too. I kept walking and sometimes sat on the snow. I’m worried I lost my train because based on my researched the last train will be leaved at 04.00 pm, and at 03.40 pm I’m still far away from the train station.
I’m very tired, then suddenly there’s an old man with his car came to me, I tried to hitchhike and I said ‘Zamiin Uud with the finger pointing’ he said with body language to let me in on his car. When I’m arrived he asked me for money. I thought this guy will help me like when I hitchhiked in Thailand. I pretended with my body language that I don’t have money and he just let me go, because If I asked how much, he will charge me with exorbitant prices.
(FYI, in Mongolia all the people can be a driver as long as they have driving license, so I think it’s lil bit hard for you to hitchike. You can do it, but make sure they didn’t ask for money).
Finally I’m arrived, and luckily the train will be left at 06.00 pm and it cost 22.000 tugrik and took around 12 hours. Btw the shortcut that I did, works perfectly, I made a short cut from regular time on map 1 h 41 min into 40 minutes, include the free ride lol. And here’s it’s the good stories began. I met someone that help me to buy the Mongolian sim card, I used Mobicom, 20.000 Tugrik for 1 month internet with 3 Gigabyte mobile data, it’s pretty good and fast If you stayed in the city, but when you go to the countryside the connection was not really good.
He also accompanied me to find my guest house. I worked as a content writer on the travel agency in Ulaanbaatar. It’s pretty laid-back, I can do many things in my free time. The internet connection was really fast, they provided me with free food and accommodation. It also has hot shower. The location was pretty good, near the supermarket and embassy.
The Journey from Indonesia to Russia via China and Mongolia
Part IV: Processing Russian Visa in Ulaanbaatar
Here my stories how can I get my Russian Visa in Ulaanbaatar-Mongolia. The process simplicity it self. It’s just took 5 minutes, I came to the embassy, gave my document to the officer who stand by in the outside, then he will asked you to put all of your luggage, and he will asked you to enter the door, brought all your documents to the officer behind the desk, he will check, and you will get the receipt.
You just need to pay to the TDB Bank for $70. I applied on 22 January 2018, and I can take it on 25 January 2018 at 13.00 Pm. The documents that you need :
1. Tourist Invitation Voucher
2. Russian Application Form, you can get it on Russian Embassy web. Please remember about the country that you applied you need to fill based on your current country, not Indonesia. Then print, the application form
3. Passport with a blank double-page spread, valid for at least 6 months after the date of expiry of the visa.
4. 1 photo 3×4 with white background
5. Flight booking ticket
6. Hostel booking reservation
7. Itineraries
Here’s the web that you can check If you want to process in Ulaanbaatar, https://mongolia.mid.ru/en_GB/consular
PS: for flight booking ticket, hostel, and itineraries I just prepare it, just in case If they didn’t approve my document. At the time, they checked it, and they returned my flight and hostel booking reservation. For the itinerary, he took it. Well, on this link they didn’t mention the 3 things that I mentioned before. I just did it, to avoid they ignore my application form. Btw it’s more easier than you process in Beijing, I’m pretty sure about it.
January 25, 2018
I woke up early in the morning, prepared my own breakfast and went to Russian Embasy. It was -42°C the lowest temperature that I got when I’m in Mongolia. I thought it’s gonna be freezing outside, but it’s not. I felt warm, maybe I was in hurry at time so I made a lot of movement lol.
Btw, from my volunteer place to Russian Embassy not really far, just 400 m. I came at 09.00 am, I didn’t realize that on my ticket they asked me to come at 13.00 pm. It’s totally useless for me to wake up early. Btw 09.00 am in Mongolia same with 07.00 am in Indonesia, the different time just 1 hour ahead, but the sunrise and sunset time was different. I just spent my time by walked around in the mall, I’m just curious how much does it cost for the outdoor winter stuff in Mongolia.
Well, the results it’s pretty expensive. Mostly they sale branded stuff such as North Face, Columbia, Sorrel, Jack Wolfskin and etc. Don’t worry about the originality, I already checked all the stuff that they sell in there were original. For example for the shoes from Columbia, shoes titanium thermal tech, on their product you will see “-54”, and it cost 392.000 Tugrik which is same with 2.173.000. It’s very interesting for me, because that’s the only 1 option that has cheapest price and it can resist the cold until -54, but I’m not a kind of person that can directly to decide and buy.
Based on my researched a lot of reviewer disappointed with this product, It can hold -40 only in 10 minutes then after that your feet will be freezing. You can check it more, for related product but that’s the conclusion that I got. Another stuff such as thermal gloves from Columbia 135.000 tugrik, Northface shoes 428.000 tugrik, Zamberland made in Italy 420.000 – 650.000 tugrik, socks with 80% wool material 40.000 tugrik, timberland shoes 400.000 tugrik, Merrell 472.000, Jack Wolfskin made in Vietnam 449.000, and Weibrener made in Romania but this one I forgot how much.
After I walked around, I went to the embassy and took my visa but the problem is I only got 7 days visa, I thought I will get 30 days visa because I usually just put few days itinerary when I processed my visa, such as China. At the time I processed it in Laos, I just put 3 days and I got 30 days. I will talk about it in another part.
The Journey from Indonesia to Russia via China and Mongolia
Part V: The Northern Part of Mongolia
On the 2nd days when I’m arrived, I got an invitation from my Mongolian friend to hike the mountain. I’m pretty excited, and directly said yes because I never hike snowy mountain. I woke up early and met another hikers on meeting point. The name of that club is Khairkhan Hiking Club.
They always have many events on weekend, and it’s pretty good for someone who want to get adventure sensation while you stay in bustling city Ulaanbataar. All the members were very friendly, I had a lot of friends after I hike with this hiking club, at the there were 3 foreigners, I’m from Indonesia, 1 girl from Ireland, and 1 girl from Japan.
There’s one accident that I couldn’t forget when I hike my first snowy mountain. My ears was freezing and bleeding. At the time, I just wondering “why all of them used hat? It’s not cold, I don’t even feel cold at the time” I just keep walking without hat, until someone came to me and said “hey, look your ears was freezing” I didn’t believe, and tried to touch my ears.
It’s true all of my ears covered by ice, it’s like when someone used headphone. I’m panic and one of the member said tried to rub your ears with snow. Maaaaan, it’s pretty cold and at the time it’s not working. Then I put my hat on and covered it with my hoodie. When the ice melted, my ears bleeding.
At the time, I just hike with decent winter stuff, and decent shoes. It’s not a thick shoes with the fur inside or thermal technology, it’s also very slippery, it doesn’t have featured such as snow contact rubber but it’s okay, I made it. I don’t even know how to pack my meals during the winter. I only have palm dates, but I shared it to another people.
Suddenly one by one they gave me food and hot drink. I also learnt how they packed their meals by using aluminium foil It’s okay, with all of my drawbacks I can arrive on the peak, It doesn’t matter how fancy your stuff, it’s useless If you have weak mentality. I knew what is my final point, I knew all of my drawbacks but I can handle it until I’ve got what I want.
Btw the beauty of mountain it self was so serene but be careful with the extreme cold weather. The name of that mountain is Bogd Khan, just 2261 above sea level. When I’m in Ulaanbatar I just went to the mountain on my first week, and didn’t go to anywhere until the 2nd week because I had a lot of things to do such as Russian Visa.
After I finished with my Russian Visa, I decide to explore the Northern part of Mongolia. Well, honestly It’s pretty hard for me to decide between going to the Western part of Mongolia to meet Eagle Hunter or to the Northern Part of Mongolia to meet the last tribe of Mongolia, Reindeer family. I did a polling on my Instagram, because I really need another opinion.
Actually most of them want to see eagle hunter but at the time, I got an invitation to teach English in the Northern part of Mongolia, and she offered me reindeer trip with volunteer price. It’s very interesting for me, and I have high expectation about it. I decided went to Murun, my volunteer place in the Northern part of Mongolia. I bought the ticket in Dragon bus terminal (the main terminal in Ulaanbatar) to Murun. It cost 32.600 tugrik and it takes 14 hours trip.
I worked for 2 weeks in Murun, I taught English for various levels, developing the marketing of the guest house and also make decoration, a wood sign board with the guest house logo. It’s good opportunity and experience to work as a volunteer on that place but so far on my volunteer experience that’s the worst experience that I ever had.
Well, I just try to be honest, to give my real experience which is there were positives and negatives side by did a volunteer on that place. I don’t know about the previous reviews about that place but everything looks good, but not to me. Maybe because I’m an Asian with the black skin and black hair. So she treat me different. The previous volunteers mostly came from Western.
I’ll tell to you all the good and bad things one by one, I put the marks (+) for positive and (-) negatife. When I’m arrived, the owner husband picked me up and accompany me to find an atm and a comb. (+). On the first day when I’m arrived the owner explained the information about her program to meet reindeer family but it made me surprise because I thought, to do this volunteer I should to pay first.
I almost cancel the trip because I don’t have much money then she talked to me ‘previously our guest likes to do some trip from our travel company’ Then I thought I need to do the trip first which is pay some money then I can do my volunteering. I’m stuck at the moment because I already on her place, so I need to take some money to pay the trip. I thought the trip it self will be interesting, but it’s not. I paid 300.000 tugrik for 4 days to meet the reindeer family. She gave me the price with euro, at the first she said €35 / day, so If I did 4 days I need to pay €140 or 420.000 tugrik.
Wow it’s unaffordable price for me, I tried to bargain until I got the price 260.000 tugrik and as an exchange I did a lot of things to help her but suddenly she changed her mind and asked me to pay 300.000 tugrik. It’s very expensive for me, for the person who traveling with the tight budget and work as a volunteer to survive but I don’t have another option, so I paid it.
I really want to see the Reindeer family because it’s the last tribe of Mongolia. Their population always decrease year by year. Based on my researched on the internet in 2010 the population around 114 family, in 2016 around 40 and when I visited them in the winter in 2018 it’s just around 9 families. I start my trip around 01.00 pm. I sat on 1 van with 15 people inside. It’s very tired trip because it took 15 h 30 m, from Murun to Tsaganuur (a place that you stay for 1 day before you go to the reindeer family.
You can charge all of your devices in here, because in Taiga/Reindeer family, you can only charge your phone). Along the way from Murun to Tsagaanur you couldn’t move your leg, and the driver didn’t stop at the restaurant, or minimarket to find the food or drink. We arrived in the Tsaganuur around 04.30 am.
2 days on Taiga I didn’t do anything, there were no activities list from her tour company. It’s like unorganized trip. she said before, I can hike to the mountain with reindeer but it was not. On the first day when I’m arrived in Taiga, the reindeer family said I can hike in the morning. I woke up early then they asked me to sleep again.
When I woke up, they asked me to eat. I waited for a long time until 12 pm, I just waited and sat. When I went to the outside, there weren’t any reindeer. I tried to ask directly with the family, “I want to hike with reindeer, then they asked me to hike by my self and walking” (-)
I hiked to the mountain but I didn’t find any reindeer. Until the last day I didn’t do anything, then I called my host ‘is it possible for me to hike with the reindeer?’ she said ya, but in fact I just hike by walking to the mountain, just until near to the mountain. I found many reindeer. But I rode the reindeer when all them already in Taiga settlement. It’s not almost 5 minute, took some pictures, and I should pay 20.000 tugrik .
On the last day I don’t have any transportation to take me back to the Murun. The driver gave me 25.000 to pay another driver but at the end he took back the money and I got my ride on the next day early morning. You can imagine about the total price, If the transportation from Murun to Taiga costed 25.000 tugrik and vice versa, and during my stayed, I just ate piece of meat and noodle. (-)
When I’m arrived in Murun, I need to do my responsibilities as a volunteer. On the first until third days I taught on her English club, I don’t have a break time like she said before. Previously she said I will teach from 11.00 pm until 01.00 pm and 14.00 pm until 16.00 pm. I thought I will have 1 hour break, but it was not. Sometimes I didn’t have a break time, and I taught until 16.00 pm.
I never have this experience before, even I worked as a volunteer in very2 poor area in the mountain of Cambodia, they care with the volunteer, fair. They treat us as a human, not like a robot. So far when I work as a volunteer, I always have a break time for 1 hour and we always on time, when is the lunch or dinner time. As volunteers we work as hard as we can as good as we can, we didn’t ask for money.
We just need the host or the owner care to the volunteers and treat us as a human not like a robot by working non-stop without eat. I always headache on my first week because of that things, until I can hold it anymore and I asked ‘when is the lunch time in Mongolia?’
After that, she and her husband were very2 care, they always give me a food, for breakfast, lunch and dinner. They also gave me a bunch of meals when I leave her place. I never expect or ask to have a good meal, I can eat anything. I ever life with the poor kids in the mountain, we just eat very2 simple things, just rice, salt and one kind of vegetable without meat but they are really care to the volunteers by giving their food on time because they know hard volunteers work for them without paid. (+)
I am sad and disappointed because I lost my gifts that I bought in China for my family. I just bought those 3 simple toys because I don’t have much money, but I know my family will be happy when I gave those 3 simple toys. It’s very important and valuable things for me. At the time her daughter saw my toys, and she asked me ‘is it okay to hang them on my daughter’s bag? There are 4 toys okay? (3 toys for my family and 1 doll the gift from my best friend in Vietnam) She tried to convince me that everything will be okay and I can get it back on the last day before I leave. I said, ‘okay, no problem’
But the weird things happened 2 days before I leave. 1 toy disappear, and I asked her ‘where is the totoro?’ She didn’t answer. On the last day, I’m totally surprised all of my toys gone, except the dolls from my friend in Vietnam (this one not really interesting than those 3 toys).
I asked her, where is my toys? She can’t answer. I’m not sure If it’s lost because there’s one character that her daughter likes. At the time I want to give her since she told me that she likes that character but at the end, all of my toys gone. I’m very sad. You can’t imagine how valuable it is. It’s not my toys, it’s just small and cheap gifts for my family. I’m okay If that’s mine, not as a gift for someone you love (-)
By the way, the kids on her English club were very2 smart and cute, I’m happy to teach them (+). But there’s a problem, when I taught the kids, on the same time there’s another student with totally different level. Only 1 teacher but there are 2 different levels on the same time, it’s hard for me to focus and try decide the materials as fair as possible (-)
I gave a suggestion to divide the class based on their level. So it’s easy for the teacher and student to focus, and no one student disappointed because maybe the levels of materials totally different.
When there’s a foreign teacher that couldn’t speak Mongolian, it’s very important they have teaching assistant in the class, to translate from English to Mongolian, so they are understand. Sometimes when I taught, and there were no teaching assistant in the class they just pretending that they understand. So far when I taught in Asian Countries, I always have 1 teaching assistant that helps me to translate from English to their language.
At the end she sent me the certificate because I need it when I crossed the border, the immigration always ask ‘what do you do in this country?’ Because so far I always spend a month in every country to work as a volunteer and traveling (+). Yup, when I’m traveling I always work as a volunteer to survive from 1 country to another country, only to get free food and accommodation. As an exchange, I share all of my skills, my knowledge, my time and my energy to help another people, to makes them happy, success on their life, business, or future.
By the way, at the time there were not many activities for Reindeer family during the winter, they just drunk every day. The horn of Reindeer also not to big and beautiful, If you want to take a picture with beautiful horn, you should come on Summer. Not only beautiful Reindeer, but everything will looks green and a lot of activities but maybe the price will be more expensive because on summer many tourist come to Mongolia.
If you want to go there I suggest you to take early morning transportation, because along the way from Murun to Tsaaganur and vice versa. Khuvsgul lake is a scenic lake wilderness. It’s very beautiful even in the winter. If you’re lucky the driver will drive on the freezing Khuvsgul Lake and off road near the Khuvsgul Lake. It has different perspective and very beautiful.
At the time, I got both of them, off road and freezing lake but we drove at night when we crossed the freezing khuvsgul lake, it’s totally dark, the wind blew very strong, you can’t see anything, it’s also too risky because the driver always stop to check the possibilities of the road that we can pass, driving at night in the vast area of Khuvsgul Lake it’s not an easy but we made it, we arrived safely. When I went back to Murun I got early transportation so I can see the scenic part of Khuvsgul.
Another tips are, You need to wake up early around 08.00 am If you want to see a lot of Reindeer near your place, because around 09.00 am they will go to the mountain and it will be little bit hard for you to find them, they run pretty fast. They will walked around in the mountain until 17.30 pm then go back to the Taiga settlement. If you want to make all the reindeer comes to you and surrounded by reindeer, it’s pretty easy. On the winter, you just need to pee, then all of them will come to you and drink your pee. It’s not a joke, you can try it, seriously.
During the winter it’s hard for them to get the water, they need to lick the snow until they found something that they can eat such as green weeds, and freezing water. If you go the mountain, just follow their steps, and found many green weed along the way, which means that is the route that they used and you can find them in the mountain.
There’s one moment that I still remember about Reindeer Family, I just spent 2 days with them but we felt like a family, on the last day. Mr. Gamba, my host, he’s crying, he hug and kiss me a lot, he just show with his body language that is my last day I met them, his family member kiss me one by one. Mr. Gamba showed his body language which means I always in the heart of Reindeer family, all of us is family and you also. I replied with the same gesture.
Living in the countryside during the winter also lil bit hard, they will melt the snow or Ice to drink, it’s not often for you to take a shower. For the example, me. I just used the same outfit for 1 week, and took a shower once a week. Mostly they don’t have a bathroom to take a shower, you need to go to the public shower. It cost 2500 tugrik and it’s pretty good.
The public shower in Murun has spotless bathroom. It’s worth it for me to pay 2500 tugrik. If you want to poop, you just poop directly in the wood box, there’s one hole and there’s no water. If you like to collect animal skin, you can find a lot of people sell the animal skin near the road such as sheep, goat, horse, yak. It cost 20.000 – 25.000 tugrik, but it’s still in the fresh condition, you will find the blood and bad smell. On the last day I saw they hang the wolf skin, full from head to tail, include their hands and legs but it’s lil bit expensive, 60.000 tugrik. I really want to buy it, but I was thinking I will have some problem in the immigration.
The Journey from Indonesia to Russia via China and Mongolia
Part VI: Surprised at the end of my journey in Mongolia
At the time, I was thinking from Tsaganuur I could cross directly to Russian Border but there’s no transportation. I asked another option to my host, there’s 1 van will take you from Murun to Selenge province, the province before Altanbulag Border but it cost 60.000 tugrik which is more expensive than direct bus from Ulaanbataar to Ulan-Ude Russia.
I didn’t take that option because the van just drop off me before the border, I need to take a taxi to the border then from the border I need to take another transportation to the near train station that can take me to Ulaan-Ude, the distance around 42 km to 50 km. From that station I can take the train to Ulan-Ude, which is to many steps, and waste of time, money and energy.
I decided go back to Ulaanbaatar to take direct bus to Ulan-Ude, it cost around 72.000 tugrik, the time schedule is 07.30 am, 13.00 pm or 15.00 pm (I forgot), and 19.30 pm. I choose 07.30 am, then I contact my host in Ulaanbatar that I will come back and I can help her If they still have something to do.
When I’m arrived in the guest house I met 1 Austria guy, we did a lot of conversation. He looks under the weather, and at the time, I’m also hungry. I only have few meals not much. Just eggs and potatoes, since I’m in Mongolia I just ate rice 3 times. On the first time when I’m arrived, on the second week, and the last week when I met Reindeer Family in Northern part of Mongolia.
The price of rice it’s quite expensive that’s why It’s not often for me to eat with rice. I never buy the rice just potatoes or breads, that rice I got from my host. Mongolia also it’s my first country that I always eat with meat 3 times a day, from horse, sheep, goat, beef and yak. To be honest their meat is number 1 I think, it’s smooth and delicious. I never buy for the meat, because I got free meals every day from my volunteer places.
Based on the 1 family who lived in Tsagaanuur, they said the price for 1 full goat or camel just 60.000 tugrik, which is almost same with the transportation from Ulaanbataar to Ulan-Ude. For 1 full cow, it cost 400.000 Tugrik. I’m surprised when I heard about it, because in my country for 1 full cow it cost 5.277.321 tugrik or $ 2.197. Btw I gave him the simple meal. We ate together. He said thanks for the food, I just said ‘no, it’s okay. It’s my pleasure to help another traveler. I know how does it feel like to be a tight budget traveler, sometimes we didn’t eat for 1 day because we don’t have much money.’
Suddenly he helped me a lot. I told him I have some problems when I go to Russia such as my visa, and I don’t have any place in Russia. He gave me a lot of Information, he tried to ask all his friends in Russia that I’m looking for a place. Then I got it few hours before my arrival. Here’s the surprise part of my journey in Mongolia.
I hope everything will be fine when I crossed the border, but it’s totally not. All the officers in Mongolia immigration confused about my passport, I told them that I don’t need any visa to visit your country. All of them didn’t understand English. I spent 1 hour in Immigration, I thought I already lost my bus like when I’m in China, but no. Thank you so much, Russian, you’re very kind.
The drivers and the passengers, they were still waiting for me. The Mongolian immigration looks confused and busy only to find the information about my passport. I showed them the Mongolian website that showed the information for Indonesian official passport or diplomatic we got 30 days free entry. Here’s the link http://www.mfa.gov.mn/?page_id=18131.
That’s is the link that Mongolian Embassy in Beijing showed to me. I also asked them, “If I need a visa to your country, why you allowed me to entrance your country in Zamiin-Uud border?” Seriously, I already angry with them, and speak loudly but they didn’t understand and always said my passport it’s not official passport and they asked me “If you want to go to Russia you need to have Mongolian visa, you can get it.
Just pay it now with 115.000, then you can go to Russia or If you don’t want to pay, you will go back to Ulaanbaatar or back to your country”. Seriously, it’s totally useless to talk with them, I said “you can call Mongolian embassy in China or my country, but they didn’t care”
At the end, I paid it. Just in 5 minute, they gave me directly Mongolian visa in the exit border. They smile, shake my hand and said good luck. I just show my lil finger down, which means in Mongolia it’s a bad sign. I said Mongolian is bad. They just laugh.
That’s my lil story, I hope it will be useful for all of you. Remember that 1 kindness that you shared, you will get more and more, you don’t even know when and where. That’s the only thing that makes me survive until now. I don’t have much money, all I have just my skills, knowledge, time and energy to help another people.
Ahh I forgot, last but not least, my dreams. You should have a target, so, you always know where do you want to go, and it gives you spirit when you’re tired or failed in the middle to achieve your dream. My dreams are, I can arrive in Canada, and work in film Industry. I don’t know when I can achieve it, but I always try it. That’s why my direction always going to the North and turn right to Alaska and Canada.
The stories in Russia also very interesting for me, I’ll tell about it in another part. Honestly, at this time, I’m not lucky I made a mistake when I processed my Russian visa, I just put 7 days on my tourist voucher. I thought I’ll get 30 days visa. Now I’m looking for how to extend my visa in Russia, I only have 4 days left. Maybe Russia is the end of my journey, or maybe there’s another surprise in the future. I don’t know.
I’m still confuse which country that I should visit. Actually my direction is Vladivostok, processed another visa such as Japan, Korea or Canada. It’s like I almost close to my dream “Canada” but the way to get there it’s not an easy. I don’t know what will happen next. Now I’m stuck. Maybe there’s someone that can help me. See you in another story. (*)
The Journey from Indonesia to Russia via China and Mongolia – end.
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